Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 RTW

Julia Nobis

Julia Nobis (detail)

Ros Georgiou

Ros Georgiou (detail)

Marte Mei van Haaster

Romee Strijd

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Patricia van der Vliet

Polina Kasina

Frida Gustavsson

Frida Gustavsson (detail)

I wasn't terribly impressed with Sarah Burton's latest for Alexander McQueen this Spring 2012. There is a lot I haven't included because the but wasn't quite right. It is a signature for the label to cinch the waists and follow the contours of the body but some of this was a little too pronounced aka trying to hard. There were a few, especially the black dresses that took fetishism to a trashy level and although sometimes this is the aim - it's not my taste and it doesn't look beautiful or particularly innovative. The details I have chosen show the immense attention paid to rich fabrics and delicate embellishment. I particularly like the crepe style blazers - the material is something I haven't encountered and makes for a very unique texture/aesthetic. It is natural to have high standards when encountering a McQueen collection, hence I may seem a bit harsh, but that, to me, is justified. I'm sure Fall 2013 will change my tune (cross fingers).

Chloé Spring 2012 RTW

Sigrid Agren

Sigrid Agren detail

Kate King

Zuzanna Bijoch

Daga Ziober

Sigrid Agren

Sigrid Agren detail

Sigrid Agren detail

Patricia van der Vliet

Patricia van der Vliet detail

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Jacquelyn Jablonski detail

Jacquelyn Jablonski detail

Julia Nobis

Karmen Pedaru

Karmen Pedaru detail

Josefien Rodermans

Josefien Rodermans detail

Daga Ziober

Daga Ziober detail

Nimue Smit

Nimue Smit detail

Nimue Smit detail

Kinga Rajzak

Kinga Rajzak detail

Zuzanna Bijoch

Zuzanna Bijoch

Whilst this collection is certainly nothing ground-breaking in terms of aesthetic or design, Clare Waight Keller, the new designer behind Chloé delivered a consistently good quality collection. It stayed close to the Chloé relaxed, feminine and fresh style that the brand has so carefully tried to maintain since the Phoebe Philo years. What sets this collection apart is its use of bright colour, pleating, drapery, sheer fabric, layering and luxuriously loose yet flattering pants. Also a special mention to the beauty team who made faux au naturale look effortlessly beautiful. I hope that in the future Keller can push the boundaries a little further and forge a strong and individual path for herself at Chloé, she certainly has the design skills to pull it off. Well done on an elegant beginning. 

Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2012 RTW

Alina Baikova

Joan Smalls

Shu Pei Qin

Ruby Aldridge

Aline Weber

Sigrid Agren

Ella Kandyba

Kori Richardson

Karmen Pedaru

Karlie Kloss

There has been a lot of buzz around Anthony Vaccarello since his last and seriously exquisite Fall 2011 collection which I reviewed here. I actually prefer his previous collection to this one for Spring 2012. There was a marked increase in the level of bare skin and in my opinion the Fall 2011 collection was far more tasteful and creatively cut than this one. What did make this current collection shine and continue his success was the cohesive vision and innovative drapery and cut-outs. No wonder the top models were lining up to be in this show, it certainly shows of the best aspects of a woman's figure - legs, torso, neckline and shoulders. These pieces are obviously not for the self-conscious but should someone wear this on the red carpet or at a cocktail party I am sure they will make the biggest and most fashionable statement. No one does body-con, strategically placed fabric better than Anthony Vaccarello. Whilst bordering on showing too much skin this season - I deliberately chose not to post the overtly revealing outfits - Vaccarello displays just how much talent and promise he has. I can't wait for next Fall 2012 already.

Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 RTW

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw backstage

Jourdan Dunn

Jourdan Dunn backstage

Kasia Strauss

Kasia Strauss detail

Kasia Strauss backstage

Olga Sherer

Olga Sherer detail

Olga Sherer backstage

I'm more than a little sorry to say that these four pieces were the only designs I deemed worthy of posting. However, as they are quality designs with the potential to be iconic dresses in many fashion editorials in the coming months, Tomas Maier can almost be forgiven for a less than strong collection. The collection fell flat when Maier played with dark purple's and green's, black and red and a touch of brown with no thematic line running through it whatsoever. It had a murky and dubious look and feeling. Even the sexiness of a Bottega Veneta collection had gone missing and that has been the saving grace and strength of many a show by Maier. The flashes of the old Maier are seen in the pieces above and I hope, are what he views to be his strengths after the fall-out of this season's effort. On another note, special attention must be given to the models; Abbey Lee Kershaw, Jourdan Dunn, Kasia Strauss and Olga Sherer, who have done a stunning job for the season and really make these pieces shine - hence why I have included multiple shots of the same outfit.