Sophie Theallet Spring 2012 RTW

It is sexy, it is bold and it is New York. In a way it reminds me of Samantha Jones from Sex & The City; the bright colours, the shiny fabric, the simple cuts and the semi-revealing look that is sensual with a touch of demure. It may not be ground-breaking in an innovative sense but Sophie Theallet designs for a niche market that is well and truly alive and does it better than most. Well done.

Richard Nicoll Spring 2012 RTW

Maud Welzen

Chantal Stafford-Abbott

Suzie Bird

Sara Blomqvist

Bette Franke

Pilar Solchaga

Caitlin Lomax

Hanne Gaby Odiele

If, like me, you're not a fan of the large rose print or emboss then you would have had a hard time finding something to like in Richard Nicoll's latest collection. To me the rose theme is garish and reminds me of my grandparents (not a bad thing, but not fashion-forward either). What is left is a little mediocre but I thought it was worth posting for some design concepts and his use of sheer fabric.

Pringle of Scotland Spring 2012 RTW

Abbey Lee Kerhsaw

Martha Streck

There wasn't much that was good about Pringle of Scotland this season (as with all others), but here's what was...

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2012 RTW

Liu Wen

Caterina Ravaglia

Valerija Sestic

Frida Gustavsson

Frida Gustavsson (detail)

Frida Gustavsson (detail)

Nimue Smit

Elsa Sylvan

Elsa Sylvan (detail)

Josephine Skriver

Fei Fei Sun

Fei Fei Sun (detail)

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Merilin Perli

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Caroline Brasch Nielsen (detail)

Xiao Wen

Xiao Wen (detail)

Jac

Jac (detail)

This is genius. Sorbet colours, fabric with a pearl sheen and black fabric and leather as a punchy accent. It's modern, breezy and minimalist with a little attitude. This is New York fashion at its best. I must say, there wasn't a lot I liked at New York fashion week this year, it was all a bit the same; sporty, "edgy" for edgy's sake, monochrome colour palette, quite masculine and the tailoring a little bit inept compared to their European counterparts. Phillip Lim is a standout and clearly does his own thing. I have looked at his work each season but this is the first time I've seen it and thought, yes, this is creative and quality design with an independent and inspired look. Everything in the past has blended in with the rest of fashion week. Congratulations for breaking the mould this season. Also, it's wonderful to see more Asian models on the runway here and their look is still far too unappreciated in high fashion.

Matthew Williamson Spring 2012 RTW

Anja Rubik

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Catherine McNeil

Caterina Ravaglia

Ming Xi

Catherine McNeil

Melissa Tammerijn

Anja Rubik

The colour palette of Matthew Williamson's latest spring collection is its biggest strength with just the right variations of coral, orange and yellow making it a strong and cohesive look. The tribal prints and the the embroidery with a slight Indian and Western feel are welcome accents to the otherwise tailored and simple staple pieces. It's great to see Australian model Catherine McNeil back on the runway, often seen by the fashion elite as not thin enough for the runway, I think she is healthy-looking, gorgeous and should not conform to the impossible standard.

Jonathan Saunders Spring 2012 RTW

Hedvig Palm

Ros Georgiou

Nimue Smit

Ruby Jean Wilson

Erjona Ala

So Young Kang

Daiane Conterato

Daiane Conterato (detail)

Bambi Northwood-Blyth

Anais Pouliot

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Bette Franke

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Julia Nobis

Valerija Kelava

Maud Welzen

Nimue Smit

Jasmine Tookes

So Young Kang

Hedvig Palm

Backstage Photos (courtesy of Wallpaper* Mag):

This is one of the most inspired, stunning, cohesive and elegant collections I have ever seen. The sorbet colours are, to say the least, alluring and very attractive. It is, in one word, ladylike. I don't know how Saunders has managed to create such beautiful outfit combinations, the colours and prints, despite initial expectations are highly complementary. Don't even get me started on the perfection of his tailoring. It is an absolute joy to see such bright colour-blocking and is enough to convince me to try wearing it. Thank you Jonathan.