Sunday, 30 October 2011

Chloé Spring 2012 RTW

Sigrid Agren

Sigrid Agren detail

Kate King

Zuzanna Bijoch

Daga Ziober

Sigrid Agren

Sigrid Agren detail

Sigrid Agren detail

Patricia van der Vliet

Patricia van der Vliet detail

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Jacquelyn Jablonski detail

Jacquelyn Jablonski detail

Julia Nobis

Karmen Pedaru

Karmen Pedaru detail

Josefien Rodermans

Josefien Rodermans detail

Daga Ziober

Daga Ziober detail

Nimue Smit

Nimue Smit detail

Nimue Smit detail

Kinga Rajzak

Kinga Rajzak detail

Zuzanna Bijoch

Zuzanna Bijoch

Whilst this collection is certainly nothing ground-breaking in terms of aesthetic or designClare Waight Keller, the new designer behind Chloé delivered a consistently good quality collection. It stayed close to the Chloé relaxed, feminine and fresh style that the brand has so carefully tried to maintain since the Phoebe Philo years. What sets this collection apart is its use of bright colour, pleating, drapery, sheer fabric, layering and luxuriously loose yet flattering pants. Also a special mention to the beauty team who made faux au naturale look effortlessly beautiful. I hope that in the future Keller can push the boundaries a little further and forge a strong and individual path for herself at Chloé, she certainly has the design skills to pull it off. Well done on an elegant beginning. 

Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2012 RTW

Alina Baikova

Joan Smalls

Shu Pei Qin

Ruby Aldridge

Aline Weber

Sigrid Agren

Ella Kandyba

Kori Richardson

Karmen Pedaru

Karlie Kloss

There has been a lot of buzz around Anthony Vaccarello since his last and seriously exquisite Fall 2011 collection which I reviewed here. I actually prefer his previous collection to this one for Spring 2012. There was a marked increase in the level of bare skin and in my opinion the Fall 2011 collection was far more tasteful and creatively cut than this one. What did make this current collection shine and continue his success was the cohesive vision and innovative drapery and cut-outs. No wonder the top models were lining up to be in this show, it certainly shows of the best aspects of a woman's figure - legs, torso, neckline and shoulders. These pieces are obviously not for the self-conscious but should someone wear this on the red carpet or at a cocktail party I am sure they will make the biggest and most fashionable statement. No one does body-con, strategically placed fabric better than Anthony Vaccarello. Whilst bordering on showing too much skin this season - I deliberately chose not to post the overtly revealing outfits - Vaccarello displays just how much talent and promise he has. I can't wait for next Fall 2012 already.

Sunday, 23 October 2011

Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 RTW

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw backstage

Jourdan Dunn

Jourdan Dunn backstage

Kasia Strauss

Kasia Strauss detail

Kasia Strauss backstage

Olga Sherer

Olga Sherer detail

Olga Sherer backstage

I'm more than a little sorry to say that these four pieces were the only designs I deemed worthy of posting. However, as they are quality designs with the potential to be iconic dresses in many fashion editorials in the coming months, Tomas Maier can almost be forgiven for a less than strong collection. The collection fell flat when Maier played with dark purple's and green's, black and red and a touch of brown with no thematic line running through it whatsoever. It had a murky and dubious look and feeling. Even the sexiness of a Bottega Veneta collection had gone missing and that has been the saving grace and strength of many a show by Maier. The flashes of the old Maier are seen in the pieces above and I hope, are what he views to be his strengths after the fall-out of this season's effort. On another note, special attention must be given to the models; Abbey Lee Kershaw, Jourdan Dunn, Kasia Strauss and Olga Sherer, who have done a stunning job for the season and really make these pieces shine - hence why I have included multiple shots of the same outfit.

Christopher Kane Spring 2012 RTW

Romee Strijd

Romee Strijd

Romee Strijd detail

Nadine Ponce

Nadine Ponce detail

Maud Welzen

Marte Mei Van Haaster

Marte Mei Van Haaster detail

Lindsay Lullman

Lindsay Lullman detail

Josephine Skriver

Hanna Sorheim

Elinor Weedon

Elinor Weedon

Ros Georgiou detail

Let's just get this out of the way first. The shoes or thick clompy sandals are hideous and almost ruin the whole feminine, detailed and refined look of the collection. Thankfully, I can look past this eyesore and see a beautiful vision. Certainly no where near as beautiful as his iconic fluorescent and laser-cut leather collection last Spring which I reviewed here. He has created a subtle contrast here between the geometric  cuts of the fabric and the soft floral prints and materials. Also, some beautiful embellishment and embroidery features in this collection paired with a matte satin look. What I particularly like is the velvet vintage floral coat that Lindsay Lullman wears. The material Kane uses makes it look almost translucent and magical. It is a little disappointing that he could not execute the same level of vision and cohesive look that he did last Spring but designers all have their ups and downs. It's part of the creative cycle. I look forward to next Spring then!