Tuesday, 29 March 2011

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 RTW (with details)

Freja Beha Erichsen

Emily Baker

Alana Zimmer

Maddie Kulicka

Valerija Kelava

Karmen Pedaru

Kasia Strauss

Julia Saner

Sigrid Agren

Siri Tollerød

Nimue Smit

Patricia van der Vliet

Frida Gustavsson

Detail of Alla Kostromichova

This fall collection for Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton did not match well with my personal taste in art, design and fashion yet I can fully appreciate just how special and important this collection is. I have decided that making a commentary on this collection would detract from its "message" so I will leave it up to you to observe, critique and admire.

Tuesday, 22 March 2011

Arizona Muse - Editorial - Vogue China April 2011

I must say that all of this fuss and hype over Arizona Muse has caught me a little bit by surprise. Much of her editorial work and a lot of her runway work I just feel isn't particularly special. When I came across this editorial photographed by Paolo Roversi in Vogue China April 2011, I certainly had to re-consider my judgement of her. I have previously posted on an editorial Muse did for Dazed & Confused, thus I have now found two instances where she has defied my expectations. This gives me enough solid ground to state that she is a  definite talent in modelling and has the potential to convey a strong presence in particular supportive contexts. I would not go as far as to say that she has the talent of Freja Beha Erichsen or Abbey Lee Kershaw yet, but it is not out of the realm of possibilities. What I believe she must do is cultivate her uniqueness and strength - namely, her hair, eyebrows and eyes - as they really pierce a picture and make you take notice. Of course, she naturally has a figure that lends well to modelling, but I'd like to note that it is really no one's business to provide opinions or judgements on that matter, as long as the person is healthy and happy. I really look forward to seeing what Muse does next as her career continues to develop.

Sunday, 20 March 2011

Sonia Rykiel Fall 2011 RTW

Zuzanna Bijoch

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Colinne Michaelis

Constance Jablonski

Karlie Kloss

Lindsay Lullman

This collection by Sonia Rykiel has received fairly neutral to negative reviews and I've got to say, I pretty much share the same sentiments. Aside from the great pieces I have selected above, which admittedly were hard to find, the rest of the collection just didn't fit together. The tartans were unflattering, the colour combinations (lemon and military brown, pink and red...) just didn't work together at all. It is possible to mix such colours, as Dries Van Noten shows in so many of his delightful collections, but here Rykiel was just off the mark. Also the cut of and embellishments on the tight pants (as seen on the left in the above picture) were far from flattering to the figure and that is astonishing seeing as these are abnormally thin women. Rather, if you compare these pants to those by Celine this pre-fall and this fall you will see the difference - the stripe that comes down the front of the leg is very sophisticated-looking and even the plain pants (although made with a different fabric) just look much more elegant, tailored and well-fitting. On a positive note, the pieces above are fairly well-constructed and co-ordinated but they are certainly a far cry from Rykiel's best work. I hope that next Spring (with the lesser limitations on weather and style) she will shine.

Friday, 18 March 2011

Celine Fall 2011 RTW

Monika Sawicka

Kasia Wrobel

Ruby Aldridge

Yulia Terentieva

Ros Georgiou

Suzie Bird

Milly Simmonds

Daria Strokous

Daria Strokous detail

Karmen Pedaru

Freja Beha Erichsen

Monika Sawicka

Other details (including high heels and mid heels):

Emily Baker detail

Is there anything Phoebe Philo can't do? In this collection she has managed to create multiple staple items for this season and really Celine is trans-seasonal. It doesn't matter when you buy Philo's pieces they always look classic. Such simplicty, clean lines, rich fabrics (silk, wool, leather etc), sophistication and elegance, and Philo has continued to deliver this trademark aesthetic at such a high level for the last year. I don't even need to say anything about the shoes and pants because, as you can see above, they are divinity in itself. Really, if you can't see what is so special about this designer you should possibly get your eyesight checked.